Removing the Passenger Side Rear Fender
Ok, Steve is having a dreadful time getting that nut off the end there by the brake drum. He can't get it even a little loose. Any suggestions?
He thought he might be able to work on it a little easier if I took off the fender. It needs to be repaired anyway, so I set about removing it. I got all of the bolts off but one that just pulled right through the car, washer and everything. And I couldn't get the bolts that hold the bumper bracket on under there. Steve ultimately got it loose, but broke half of them in the process. They were fused in place with rust.
~~~~~
Here I am, struggling with the bumper bracket bolts...
~~~~~
Finally, we got the fender off. Now we just need to know how to get that nut off there...
He thought he might be able to work on it a little easier if I took off the fender. It needs to be repaired anyway, so I set about removing it. I got all of the bolts off but one that just pulled right through the car, washer and everything. And I couldn't get the bolts that hold the bumper bracket on under there. Steve ultimately got it loose, but broke half of them in the process. They were fused in place with rust.
~~~~~
Here I am, struggling with the bumper bracket bolts...
~~~~~
Finally, we got the fender off. Now we just need to know how to get that nut off there...
posted by Kim In Tulsa at
2:03 PM
4 Comments:
(1) It just occurred to me to check the direction of the threads, if they're visible. Sometimes (and there's a really good reason for this that escapes me for the moment) when dealing with things that are designed to rotate, they reverse the usual "lefty loosey righty tighty" rule. (2) I can't see if there's a woodruff key or a cotter pin involved to hold the nut in place once the proper tightness is acheived. I'm almost certain such a thing would have been obviously visible. (3) That's a good wrench. If you're certain of the proper direction to move the thing, and there's no pin or key to stop it, six feet of iron pipe slipped over the wrench handle can be very persuasive.
By
Anonymous, at 3:25 AM
In addition to what I posted above and in the HH, my cousin suggests using lots of WD-40. He suggests adding WD-40, and then soaking it in WD-40. Basically, spray WD-40 on it until you run out of WD-40. Then go out and buy more WD-40. I'm almost certain he does not own stock in WD-40.
By
Anonymous, at 3:38 PM
hey i dont know you but i stubled on your site. if your trying to remove the castle nut on the real wheels..
1. lefty loosey righty tighty
2. get a 36mm impact socket
3. get a breaker bar
4. get a long pipe
5. put the wheels back on the car (the force that is needed to take off the castle nut is enough to tip the car off the stands plus nothing but rubber on cement can hold it in place.)
5 put the socket on the castle nut, put the breaker bar an the socket, put the pipe on the breaker bar and then get a couple off people to stand on the pipe.
By
Austin Caldwell, at 5:17 PM
Keep up the good work!
Austin is right. You need to put the wheel back on it, set it down and use a 4 ft cheater pipe and 36mm socket to loosen it.
By
Buggy Glenn, at 6:41 PM
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